ph III only holding 0.8 bar:(

[MB]

I have the same idea.
I'm waiting already more than a month for a reply on my mail.
So now I also go for the Evo-5 from V-MAX .................

Because the after service from EDS sucks :evil: :evil:
If they stand behind there products they could reply on some way or not ????

 

[tabs]

im also considering the evo 5 kit

 

[Stu.Pink]

I am just going now to test without actuator... report back in an hour or so.

Tabs.. where are you located, i might be interested in swapping the p3 for 3.5 if you are trading in, you should get similar price for them so should make a few more quid this way even

 

[Stu.Pink]

GRrrr....

fourth gear, 3.5k revs.. slowly throttled up, .5bar .6 .7 .8 .9 1.0bar 1.1 bar 1.15 1.2bar ...... 1.1bar 1.0bar 0.9bar :shock:

Grrrr..

So whats that show?? if it was the wastegate leaking i dont see why it would have reached 1.2bar before dropping off, so does this mean my wastegate is ok, but my turbo is fubar and can only produce sufficient boost 3-5k?? during which point its overboosting, and by the time thats died down my turbo can only manage 0.9bar???

A stock unit should be able to cope though surely, and mine makes no funny noises, and does not smoke exessivley under boost, only a minor whiff when you floor the accelerator in a hurry..

Please advise, is it as simple as i need a Turbo recon??

 

[Joe]

Hi Stupink,

at what rpm level does the boost pressure start to decrease ? Full throttle ?

Up to 5500 rpm the kkk16 should be able to produce boost without any problems, but above this level its very difficult. If all relevant components are in a good shape, one can expect that the boost pressure can be hold also above 6000 rpm, but honestly said, I havn't seen yet a standard KKK16 which was able to hold 1,2 bar above 6200 rpm.

You need to have a big exhaust pipe construction with low backpressure , a not half or fully clogged air filter, a stable pipe between air filter box and turbo charger, an intake system with an overall reduced air drag, a well going KKK16 (wastgate, spring etc. are ok), correct fuel pressure, a good lambada sensor, an intercooler with very little air drag, etc . . .

 

[Stu.Pink]

Hi joe, thanks for the in depth reply
I seem to remember it dropping off quite early, i started the run at abou 3.5k and would say it had started dropping off relativly quick, so probably before 5.5k

The car seems to have no problem overboosting(well.. its irregular, but high boost levels) and in sixth gear the overboost does not die down so quickly and often stays as high as 1.0bar untill very high revs where it drops to 0.9ish

the exhaust is a stainless straight through, with no cat, exept the back box which is a year old OEM unit, the air filter is brand new, silicon airpipe, new actuator, new OEM lambda a year ago

The only unknowns are wastegate condition, fuel pressure(4.5bar fpr, but not tested on car), and the intercooler as its the VX frontera one; visual examination only on that would suggest its at least bettter than the origional intercooler for drag, and lots better for charge cooling.

Do you know any other tests i can try to help narrow things down at all?
thanks very much for your help.

 

[ASH]

Hi !

Your falling-boost-problem seems to be a leak at the waste-Gate valve !

Mostly the lambda-cut-off is also caused by a worn engine harness , therefore you can measure a vortage diffrence between the engien ground at the intake manifold to the ECU ground !

Its easy to control : measure the DC voltage between the intake manifold and the ECU ground ( PIN3 at the boost switch ! )

Everthing above 0.02 V is too much , a seperate ground wire ( 2.5mm²) is requested between ECU - pin 24 and the intake manifold !

regards ASH

 

[MB]

Hey ASH is alive.........

but still no reply on my E-mail :x

 

[Stu.Pink]

Thanks for the reply ash, much appreceated.

I will check the voltages over the weekend and install new earth as required( my car electrics are not the best so this is quite likely needed).

In the mean time i am trying to locate a good place to get my turbo and wastegate rebuilt, would you suggest this is a good idea? I cannot really afford to buy a new/uprated turbo, but do wonder if i might be wasting my money on limited gains from rebuilding the origional unit

I will post updates after the electrical testing

 

[CallyTurbo]

Hi !

Its easy to control : measure the DC voltage between the intake manifold and the ECU ground ( PIN3 at the boost switch ! )

Everthing above 0.02 V is too much , a seperate ground wire ( 2.5mm²) is requested between ECU - pin 24 and the intake manifold !

regards ASH

ummm, measured mine today and i'm getting 0.04 v. going to wire in a seperate ground wire today

 

[Stu.Pink]

just going to measure mine after lunch, did you measure from pin3 to fuel rail earth?

How are you going to add the wire? join it into the origional loom before ecu?? there has to be a better way?? how do you know what wire it is etc?? or could it simply be taken up to the pin3 of the power switch presumably?? i will do this i think if thats ok and mine shows bad readings when i test.

 

[CalTe]

Hi there - earlier info from ASH about the Lambda fxn !!

Please check the voltage between PIN 24 inside the motronik and the ground connection of the intake manifold ! When you measure a voltage MORE than 0.15V then put an additional GROUND wire from PIN24 inside the ECU to the intake manifold ! Make the wire like 1.5mm² in Brown, so everybody can see thats a ground wire.

In these cases the motronik is reading the wrong lambda voltage, the lambda sensor is ok with its signal, but the motronik is reading like 0.15 to 0.25 V less and the lambda cutoff is activated !

In the last weeks we had this problem very often , the motronik Engine harness has some connection points where many wires were taken together, also the main ground wire inside the Engine harness is getting worse in the lifetime !

The best is to install a 1 pin connector outside the ECU , then you can measure when ever you want !

regards ASH

 

[Stu.Pink]

Hmm.. slight contradictory posts by ash then.. any comments ash?? since that post CalTe refers to have you discovered that even 0.15 is too much?? or was you post here where you said 0.02v a typing error that should have said 0.2v??

only i ask because i have just tested mine, and intake to pin3 power switch is 0.13v idle, rising to 0.15v slightly above idle..

I am now unsure what to do, are these figures acceptable?? Or do i have to do this new earth?? And whats the easiest way to do this? would the addition of the earth to pin3 be acceptable?? or is it wiser to go to the effort of taking out the ECU and opening it up and adding it to pin 24??

Thanks for the help
Stuart.

 

[Miles]

I'm now the owner of CallyTurbo's Calibra and still cant get it to hold enough boost.

The lambda cut is a cut like the boost cut as far as I know, so would this voltage between ecu and inlet manifold only affect the cut in this sense rather than only being able to hold 0.9 bar.

Has anyone had any experiances with dodgy chips or know if regal/eds are at all understanding with replacements?

 

[Miles]

Update. Now sorted.

I did a compression test which showed low compression on one cylinder, so took the head off and pistons out to discover a bent conrod:

Replaced the rods and fitted new rings, also had the cylinder head ported.

Discovered that the wastegate was cracked and the turbo bearings weren't the best so replaced it with the turbo dynamics stage one hybrid whilst it was all apart.

Ran it in and it was still the same and wouldn't hold the right boost.

So tried Stu.Pink's ecu which worked fine. Sent the ECU back to the UK EDS dealer Regal who upgraded it to phase 3.5 which works fine.

It made 333bhp last weekend, although this was with the car set up to be hold around 1.25/1.3 bar without over boost using a manual boost controler.

I used the manual boost controler because the boost has started to do funny things on any positions 2-5, it would hold overboost too long, it would overboost again high up the rev range and the boost would seem to hold back under boost. Will need to look into why its doing this!

 

[Corsa-A-LET]

Kann das sein das das Pleuel krumm ist?
Oder teusche ich mich?

 

[Miles]

Can the that be the piston rod is bent? Or teusche I me?

Thats what babblefish translates into English.

From what I've been told the rods only bend through hydraulic lock, which hasn't happened on my engine, but the engine was rebuilt before I bought it, so I can only assume it was rebuilt with bent rods.

Thats, welches babblefish ins Englische ?tzt.

Von was mir erkl䲴 worden bin, daߠdie Stangen nur Schlaufe durch
hydraulische Verriegelung, die nicht auf meiner Maschine geschehen
ist, aber die Maschine wurde bevor ich kaufte sie umgebaut, also kann
ich nur annehmen, ihr wurde mit verbogenen Stangen umgebaut.

 

[MB]

A friend of me had the same thing with the con rod.

It happend with Phase 3,5 while he was driving.
The boost went up to far and he heard a strange sound.
At the garage he saw that 1 piston was standing 2 mm lower than the other 3 at top position.

So it is possible when you driving the car.

Vmax adviced me to replace the con rods at any time above 100.000 miles and with engine power above 300 Bhp.

But I do not know what EDS thinks of this ?