Failing ignition :(

[D-Speedster]

first of all: i can read German, but writing is a problem.

well, i have the following problem:

bought a second hand c20let block,
never tested it to see if it worked.

now, after a full rebuild and installtion we do not get a
spark on the plugs from cilinder 2 and 3.
cilinder 1 and 4 are fine however ...

we allready replaced the rotor and dizzy cap.
the plugs are new,
the coil has been tested in a working c20let
and the ecu is original and has also been tested.
we tested a crankshaft sensor from an other block and
had no effect on the problem.

any idea's anyone ??
we are all out of idea's :x

again, if you can't write in english feel free to write in german :wink:

 

[AstraCarawahn]

Hi,

what´s about the Sparkplugs and the cables? Did you also change them?

Björn

 

[D-Speedster]

the sparkplugs are new
we transferred the working plug and cable from cilinder 1
to cilinder 2 and 3 and did not get a spark,
so that's not the problem

 

[Joe]

Are you sure that the ECU is running well ?
Exchange it with the one from the running C20LET to be absolutly sure.

If the ECU isok, I would follow the path to the next component involved. Exchange it with a working one from the other car until you find the component responsable for this behaviour.

And keep us informed. ;-)

We are certainly curious to hear what was the reason.

Good luck.

 

[D-Speedster]

i also bought the ecu second hand,
and was ripped out of a running calibra turbo.
seen and heard it, no problem with that according to me

 

[Joe]

D-Speedster,

as already said, I would exchange part after part starting with the ECU.

So worst case you will end up with a situation in which all primary parts of the iginition system have been replaced and its still not running.

In such a case I would start exchanging one sensor after the other.

Wish you to have the right :idea: at the right moment ! :wink:

BTW. Just a silly idea : Have you checked the earth cable ?

 

[AstraCarawahn]

The earth cable ;-)

Think you´ve meant the grounding cable between the Gearbox and the chassis ;-) Thats right, its a very important cable. Worst case, without the cable the most of the current will flow through your ECU and can destroy it.

Björn

 

[Joe]

Earth wire, earth cable, grounding wire or grounding cable, common or neutral.

Whatever you prefer and whatever is better grounded or earthed ! :wink:

 

[D-Speedster]

we'll swap the ecu coming wednesday from another running let.

but in my opinion the ecu with the PJ-code on does not have
a transponder key, right ?? does anyone still has a list ?

the grounding cables have been checked, but we'll check em again.
the cable (from the chassis) to the gearbox has been replaced,
because the ignition coil had to move there.
the strange thing is that cil 1 and 4 do spark and 2 and 3 do not,
so the grounding cables should be ok.

again: the rotor and 'dizzy-cap' have been replaced by new ones,
the spark-plugs are brandnew. and the leads arrive tomorrow,
but those shouldn't be the problem because we tranferred the
lead and plug that was working on cil 1 to the next one.

hoping for some better news on wednesday

 

[AstraCarawahn]

Are you sure that the crankshaft sensor from the other block works well? Did you change also the camshaft sensor? Have you tested the complete coil with the baseplate and the transistor (or diode) in the other calibra?

btw. the PJ ECU doesn´t have a immobiliser with car key transponder.

Björn

 

[D-Speedster]

actually not :S
but the problem is identically the same, the chances of
getting exactly the same is minimal.
but that engine did run when it was removed.

yep, we ripped the complete thing out of the running let, no difference.

can a misreading hall sensor cause this problem ?
because the running let started with the hall sensor unplugged,
but what is it is misreading something ???

 

[AstraCarawahn]

Hi,

my LET is also running without the hall sensor...but now...I don´t know how to help you anymore.

My last idea is to change the spark plugs again. Plug one of the 100% working spark plugs on one of the non working cables and one of the none working spark plugs on one of the 100% working cable...so you can eliminate any doubts on the spark plugs and the cables. (I know you try it in a similar way with another car...maybe that´s not the same)

Björn

 

[Joe]

D-Speedster,

you wrote that the sparks for cylinders 1 & 4 were fired, but not 2 & 3. That means that with a given firing order of 1-3-4-2 every 2. firing impuls seems to be missing. Would be interesting to know wether the timing of the the 2 running sparks is right or wrong.

Havn't seen a Calibra from inside for a while, so I'm not absolutly sure, but I guess that the ECU triggers an amplifier (little black box near the coil) which then feeds the coil !?

If yes, have you exchanged and tested it too ?

The camshaft(!) sensor gives the ECU the information when cylinder 1 is at the top dead and sychronises this way the whole iginition procedure. Have you checked this sensor ? If you stay in front of the car, hood open, its around 1cm left of the distributor cap. Check the cable and wether the sensor is well fixed.

 

[D-Speedster]

you wrote that the sparks for cylinders 1 & 4 were fired, but not 2 & 3. That means that with a given firing order of 1-3-4-2 every 2. firing impuls seems to be missing. Would be interesting to know wether the timing of the the 2 running sparks is right or wrong.

don't know it that timing in correct...

Havn't seen a Calibra from inside for a while, so I'm not absolutly sure, but I guess that the ECU triggers an amplifier (little black box near the coil) which then feeds the coil !?

isn't that the transistor on the baseplate with the coil ?
that one was tested by using the complete unit from a running let.

The camshaft(!) sensor gives the ECU the information when cylinder 1 is at the top dead and sychronises this way the whole iginition procedure. Have you checked this sensor ? If you stay in front of the car, hood open, its around 1cm left of the distributor cap. Check the cable and wether the sensor is well fixed.

that the hall-sensor, right ???
this connection has also been checked an sprayed with contactspray.
the running let started and keeps running with this one disconnected.
we didn't try to disconnect is one the problem let, perhaps
this one is reading incorrect, we'll try soon with a disconnected hall sensor.
we don't have any time this week, next week.

 

[D-Speedster]

YES ! it's solved !
it turned out to be the keyswitch at the steeringwheel or else the
wiring from/to it.
as soon as we connected it directly to the battery it started
from the first turn of the key.
now we placed a relay to feed it and it work fine.