As alot of you guys are snapping up intercooler kits with out 5% discount deal to mount on your cars in time for the Regal Autosport open day i thought i'd do a little DIY guide for you, and anyone else who may buy a kit in the future.....
Ive tried to write it with a little humor in mind, dont worry about rushing - if you set aside two hours on a nice afternoon you will easily complete the job with time to spare.....enjoy!
Step 1 - Get your car up on ramps if you are lucky enough to have them, or secure the car on axle stands. Its a good idea to get the car as high as is possibly safe. It makes life easier.
Step 2 - Unclip your foglight loom connections.
And undo the bolts that fix the air dam to the cross member...there are 5 T20 bolts here...
undo the two torx bolts that retain the bumper (again, two T20 bolts each side of the car)...
Step 3 - Now you can remove the 4 8mm grille bolts that fix the bumper assembly to the slam panel and take off the front bumper - pop the sides out and pull it forward, its possible by yourself, but a good idea to get a quick hand from a friend/long suffering other half/passer by .... just to make sure you dont scratch it.
Put the bumper somewhere safe for now. You wont need it for another 56 minuites
Make sure you unclip the ambient air temp sensor from the lower grille bar!
You will now be able to see the standard intercooler...
Step 4 - Now down to the nitty gritty. Begin to remove the intercooler hose retaining clips. There are 3
And unclip the intercooler pipe...
Step 5 - Now begin to remove the plastic crash bar. 2 13mm's each side...
and one rivet. dont totally remove the rivet, you can use this to help locate the bar later...
Step 6 - Remove the 2 8mm's that hold the OE intercooler in and disgard them, the intercooler is also held in with pins so dont worry - it wont drop!
you can now lift it out off the pins.
Step 7 - Now remove the rest of the intercooler hoses.
Step 8 - and remove the bayonet clips from the ends with a hacksaw, be careful not to cut through the hose.
Remember to remove ANY swarf!
Which will leave you with this...
Step 9 - Now remove the aluminium crash bar bolts to give you some working space, there are two nuts and bolts, one at each end with E12 and a 13mm heads.
Step 10 - push the intercooler onto the bottom mounts, its a nice snug fit so be brave
Note here the sweeping inlet pipe - one of the key reasons why the Blizzard cooler is so efficient - ALL of the bar and plate core is utilised
Step 11 - now put the crash bar back into position, with the bolts through it (but dont re-tighten at this point) and offer up the intercooler to the crash bar.
You can now drill the top mounts for the intercooler with an 8mm drill bit, be very very carefull her not to slip and go through the radiator or intercooler!!
you can now fix the intercooler to the crash bar with 2 M8 bolts.
You can now re-tighten the aluminium crash bar bolts and refit the lower crash bar.
Step 12 - With 20 mins left to go grab your modified boost hoses and refit them
You may have to heat them up a little - hot water from a kettle should be fine if you dont have access to a heat gun.
Step 13 - Now Check all the hoses for tightness and resecure the hoses with the hose clips.
Step 14 - Good job! Admire your work, make a cup of tea and gear yourself up to refit the bumper... in true Haynes style - refitting is the reverse of removal
This guide is for reference only, as much as i have tried to include everything possible Regal Autosport are not liable for any malfunction in common sense or disregard for personal safety
I hope those who use it find it helpful, and it makes the fitting of the intercooler even easier than it otherwise would be
__________________
www.regal-auto.co.uk
023 80558636
[email protected]
Home of the most powerful Mk5 2.0TFSi Golf in Europe, 400bhp Astra VXR & 442bhp Astra G
