Transferbox normal temperature??

[tiiikeri]

Hi again! I wonder what is normal temperature for transferbox of Turbo Vectra? When I drive about 110 km/h at least 50 kilometres temperature is over 110 celsius and seems to getting higher!Is it normal???Gauge and sensor is new so I don´t think they are faulty...?!If anyboby knows, Iwould be pleased if you can answer!

Best regardings

Toni Kettunen,Finland
e-mail:[email protected]

 

[Richie]

Not sure on actual temperature (mebbe someons from Dorfbrunnen could tell you) but remember that the drive ratio is different between the front and rear axles as standard.


This allows a rotational difference in the viscous coupling meaning the fluid will heat up to a certain temperature then, when wheel slip occurs, the fluid can react quicker than if it was totally cold.


What the normal temp is I dont know.


Arno - do you still have the temp sensor in that racing box of yours ??

 

[Joe]

tiikerie,

the tempearture should always stay below 140-145 ° celsius.

Above this temperatur u risk to have a so called hump. This means that your visco clutch connects both axles without any slip. And this will for sure destroy the weakest part in the transfer box.

Some t/b's have a temperatur probe which disables the 4x4 before the clutch starts to go into a hump. If I remember right, GM started to add this feature in 1994, but I'm not sure about the date.

The temperature always depends on several params, so that nobody can tell u what the "normal" temp for a transfer box is. I.e. If you have a high camber due to having lowered the car without correcting the camber, you for sure can expect high temperatures.

 

[Richie]

Original geschrieben von Joe
Above this temperatur u risk to have a so called hump.

Doh, I forgot I had this info from a long time ago

If anyone wants I can supply a diagram showing the change in torque and temperature as "wheel slip" increases as well as how its affected when the "hump" temp is reached.

 

[Lomax]

Hello Toni

I have been planned to buy new transferbox for my Vectra.I thought Hürlimanns sport transferbox would be quite nice for my use. Can you tell me how much power this box can handle or is it made for normal (204 hp) power only? I read the sportbox´s guarantee is valid till 300 hp, is it true??

From my own experience in know that the Sportbox can easily take the power of a phase 2 fitted car, though i must admit, that i rarely torture my car with dragstarts.

The important thing is to adjust the camber and toe if the car is lowered. Also, the oil of the transferbox should be replaced periodically (annually) . The problem is dragstarts; the construction of the t-box was originally designed for delivering approx. 100 nm of torque to the rear axle. The sport box has the capability to deliver far more, however, there will be no situation where you will have more torque on the rear that on the front. Also, the sportsbox is not designed for racing use (quartermiles, red-light starts at revs above 5000 etc.). If your driving style is very hard, you could be better off with a Racing-T-Box.

Is the sportbox more durable than the original transferbox? The original transferbox seems to be quite rubbish.My own box went down at the point of 100000 km`s.Is it normal??And I have heard other horror stories about Opels own transferbox…and could you tell me why they are so weak?

The original design of opels t-box has a small construction problem which will cause the pressure-piston sealing in the box to leak after a certain time. This often happens after approx. 100000km and is easy to detect : the t-box gets filled with powersteering oil and finally the oil flows out of the breather pipe which leads from the T-box to the area of the coolant reservoir. The problem: if you replace the broken parts (even with new ones) it is likely, that after a certain time (or 100000km) the same defect will occur again. Huerlimann has changed the design and construction of the respective parts.

Is it good for sportbox if I switch off the safety system of Opel? I mean that system: when you press brakepedal, 4x4 will be switched off over 25 Km/h speed. I have been thought if I switch off that system would the sportbox will last longer??And what about the driving pleasure and safety points in winter?

There is NO POINT to switch off the system at any time as the car does that himself. The box will not last longer. You could even have the effect of shortening the cycle time of your box as it is very important to have no differences in tyre wear from front to back. If you switch off the 4x4 for a longer period, you front tyres will wear quicker and you therefore have problems when switching on again. The driving behaviour of a car with SVG is far more neutral than with the original t-box (depending on the setup/ratio of the viscous coupling, mine is set to 220nm).

What is the normal temperature of the transferbox?When I drive about 120 km/h the temperature is about 120 celsius or even more.Is it normal...?

Your box only warms up when the viscous coupling must egalize a difference between front and rear axle (Normally just for short time; e.g. on loose grounds, when cornering etc.). If you constantly have a difference between your axles caused by uneven tyre wear or false camber and toe adjustment, your box will get hot after a certain time (the more difference, the quicker)

At a temperature of approx. 140 celsius the a safety-system (models after 93) should switch off the 4x4 and your warning light should light up as the viscous coupling comes into the ‘hump’; this means it is blocked.

Best regards
Lomax

 

[Richie]

Original geschrieben von Lomax
there will be no situation where you will have more torque on the rear that on the front.

I disagree, the car is primarily RWD during take-off.

Here is a rolling road chart showing a Cavalier (Vetcra) Turbo fitted with a Dorfbrunnen Sports box -

You notice that more torque is put through the REAR axle than the front ?? (all powers shown are ROADWHEEL powers)

The power then crosses over as wheel slip decreases which, in this case is around the 2750RPM mark




Even a standard transfer box is predominantly RWD on take off as my own chart proves. I have misplaced mine but can assure you that the power split is very similar to the Sports box excpet the cross over point it much sooner.


Only once moving does the car become more FWD but, if you look at the pic, its still roughly 60/40 split (front/rear)

 

[Lomax]

Hello Rich

Hope things are fine.

I think we are not talking about the same thing here...

think it's clear to everyone here that the rear axle can bring more torque to the ground during take off, than a simple fwd. But you cannot just subtract the fwd figs from the 4wd to get the data for rwd....

What i was trying to explain was that f.e.: with a serial T-box (where the clutch is normally set to around 90nm) in combination with a tuned engine, you have the situation that you burn too much power on the front, as the T-box will NOT deliver more than a max. of 90nm to the back.

In other words: Out of the - let's say 350nm - a bigger part is transformed into wheelspin on the front and/or heat in the t-box.

OR: If the rear is the 'better' choice during the first phase of a take off (which i do NOT question), why should i not deliver more than 90nm out of 350nm there??? For example around 220??? See my point?

I hope this has been more understandable. If not, i am sure we'll meet on your next visit in CH and immerse into the matter next to some beers...

Cheers

 

[Richie]

No problem. I agree with what you say in that under normal circumstances the car is more FWD than RWD but your comment said -

there will be no situation where you will have more torque on the rear that on the front.

so I was just clearing it up for others in case they thought this meant during take-off as well.

But you cannot just subtract the fwd figs from the 4wd to get the data for rwd....

They didnt. The measure the front and rear rollers independantly at the same time and then add both together to get total (black line) so there are no formulas or equations to make it inaccurate. The powers shown in the chart for each axle are actual figures.